The highway down the Himalayan mountains is serpentine and slow. Whereas in Nepal the mountains are everywhere hemming in the land, at the bottom is the flat plain of northern India stretching out endlessly, filled with villages and fields. At night, you see the harsh lights of gas lanterns in the unelectrified villages that line the highway. "Highway" is a generous term. Cars and buses must share the road with ox-drawn carts, bicycles and, sometimes, working elephants.